Some designs call for a freeform style collet using a technique of fusing wires to create prongs for setting the gemstone such as the above ring example. These wire claws (prongs) are solderd onto a setting bed.
Cut annealed wire into equal lengths.
The wires are then bound together with binding.
Ensure the wire ends are all at the same level.
Flux the wire bundle.
With a micro soldering torch melt the wire ends.
Wires molten into a fused ball in the correct manner.
Then the gemstone base is made.
The wires are shaped to form the claws (prongs) and each one soldered individually into place.
The wire bundle is filed to join the ring shank.
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