This jewelry lesson through a comprehensive guide and easy to follow step shows you:
- - Marking no-solder collet
- - How to shape and file the claws
- - Making shank and soldering collet on
- This tutorial can be made in a standard smithing workshop. You will need:
- - Metal : silver or gold or other
- - Round gemstone
This jewelry lesson focuses on making a solderless 8 claw collet also known as a double prong bezel setting. In this case it is made for a round gemstone, but is equally suitable for an old-cut, cushion or oval gem. You will also be shown how to make the shank. The double prong basket is then soldered onto the shank. This is a very secure setting particularly for a large gemstone.
The same 8 prong collet, this time for a cushion cut diamond on a halfround shank
Once you have familiarized yourself with making a 8 claw collet for a round gemstone, you can expand your technique by making this collet for an oval or cushion cut gemstone.