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Metalsmith Newsletter

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Dear metalsmithing friends,

This year we set ourselves a goal-- to learn a new skill set that we will practice through out the year so that at the end on 2019, we can make a piece of jewelry that we could not make at the beginning of the year.

It does not matter what that skill set is, even if it is just polishing more neatly, filing more accurately or using the right amount of solder to make a neat joint.

With that in mind, I have gone for the difficult one first. Pavé setting. A mysterious process that I have written an overview for you to read.
Actually, it is not so mysterious, just a whole lot of finickiness – and practice.

Metalsmith Newsletter - Pavé Bead Setting Examples

The word pavé (pronounced as ‘pa vay') comes from the French word ‘Pavé' which means pavement. ( as in cobble stones next to each other)

Pavé "bead" setting is a setting method in which the surface of a jewelry item appears to be covered with tiny diamonds.

Generally spoken, stones are positioned as close together as possible, sometimes in a line and sometimes in a honeycomb pattern.

The object of pavé setting is to use the least amount of metal to hold the gemstone securely in place.

These pictures show the basic steps (somewhat over-simplified) of pavé bead setting.

Metalsmith Newsletter Pavé Bead Setting Drill Hole
Metalsmith Newsletter Pavé Bead Setting Raised Sliver
Metalsmith Newsletter Pavé Bead Setting Tidy With Graver
Metalsmith Newsletter Pavé Bead Setting Rounded Beads

In the majority of pavé settings, a very small hole is drilled in the metal for the stone to sit in. A small spur like projection raised with a graver and positioned around the girdle of the stone. The sliver is then rounded into a bead with a beading tool.

More detailed discussion on Pavé Bead Setting Technique

NEW TUTORIALS



Square Shank Pavé Ring

Angular designs are currently very popular.

The angular design is repeated from the square shank style into the stepped angles of the top set with a long thin rectangle gemstone.

Square Shank Pavé Ring Tutorial - US$25

Making Traditional Oval Pavé Ring

This step by step tutorial shows how to make a traditional oval gemstone ring with small pavé set gemstone surround.

Traditional Oval Pavé Ring Tutorial - US$30

Making a Baguette Pavé Ring

This is an elaborate design which teaches multi-faceted skills all combined in making this baguette pavé ring.

Baguette Pavé RingTutorial  - US$25

Making Border Ring Set With Marquise

This dress ring follows an elegant curve around the marquise crown collet that is flanked by two small gemstones set in collets.

The band is framed by a raised border drawing the eye to the design

Border Ring Set With Marquise Tutorial - US$32

Making Border Framed Bezel Set Ring

This ring is a free-from shaped broad band framed by a border with three bezel set gemstones.

This design is suited to many adaptations by varying the gemstone sizes and setting style.

Border Framed Bezel Set Ring Tutorial - US$27

INFOGRAPHICS



This infographic summarizes how this Spessartite garnet pendant was made from rough gemstones laminated together with a center gold piece. The rough gemstone was then dopped and faceted on a gemcutting machine. Then diamonds were pavé set in the gold.

A dangling bezel set diamond and bail was added to complete the pendant.

There should be enough in the first newsletter to keep everyone quite busy, – until the next one.

Speaking of --- I am going to have some new catches and findings that are in the pipe line as we speak.

Have a warm winter end ( or summers end ) wherever you are!


Kindest regards,
Hans Meevis

Previous Metalsmith Newsletter Editions

- Marquise - In jewelry designs
- Collets - Elegant tapered collets
- Earrings - A top gift request
- Rivets - Covering jewelry making with rivets and the Rivet Maker Tool
- Geometric Designs - Making jewelry with geometric designs
- Setting - Gemstone setting tools and methods
- Pearls - More about pearls and pearl cup making
- Video Tutorial - Making Art Ring
- Drill-Str8 - The portable mini drill press on the jewelers bench
- Jewelry Design - The ins and outs of designing jewelry
- Workbench - Efficient work flow and optimum tool arrangements in jewelers workshop
- Antique - Inspiration from antique designs, plique-à-jour enameling and workshop wisdom.
- Circles - Design jewelry with circle motif such as decorative circle collet
- Nature - Flower, Owl, Dragonfly Brooches and Insect Casting
- Gems - Gem Carving and Making Halo Ring Tutorial
- Wallace Chan Exhibition and the making of a Celtic Style Ring
- Masonic Unfurling Ball Pendant and "Ring in a Ring" jewelry tutorial