Dear metalsmithing friends,
This year we set ourselves a goal-- to learn a new skill set that we will practice through out the year so that at the end on 2019, we can make a piece of jewelry that we could not make at the beginning of the year.
It does not matter what that skill set is, even if it is just polishing more neatly, filing more accurately or using the right amount of solder to make a neat joint.
With that in mind, I have gone for the difficult one first. Pavé setting. A mysterious process that I have written an overview for you to read.
Actually, it is not so mysterious, just a whole lot of finickiness – and practice.
The word pavé (pronounced as ‘pa vay') comes from the French word ‘Pavé' which means pavement. ( as in cobble stones next to each other)
Pavé "bead" setting is a setting method in which the surface of a jewelry item appears to be covered with tiny diamonds.
Generally spoken, stones are positioned as close together as possible, sometimes in a line and sometimes in a honeycomb pattern.
The object of pavé setting is to use the least amount of metal to hold the gemstone securely in place.
These pictures show the basic steps (somewhat over-simplified) of pavé bead setting.
In the majority of pavé settings, a very small hole is drilled in the metal for the stone to sit in. A small spur like projection raised with a graver and positioned around the girdle of the stone. The sliver is then rounded into a bead with a beading tool.
More detailed discussion on Pavé Bead Setting Technique
This infographic summarizes how this Spessartite garnet pendant was made from rough gemstones laminated together with a center gold piece. The rough gemstone was then dopped and faceted on a gemcutting machine. Then diamonds were pavé set in the gold.
A dangling bezel set diamond and bail was added to complete the pendant.