Dear fellow metalsmiths,
The field of jewelry making is varied and often based on centuries of knowledge, passed on from generations of craftsman.
Understanding the foundation makes it all the more interesting from our modern vantage point, using modern power tools, Cad-Cam programs, lasers and the like.
Even so, I still marvel at the skills, given the tool limitations at the time in making this Lady Brook Medieval Diamond Ring.
It was recently found in a farmers field in Britain by a metal detectorist.
Engraving reads "I hold your faith, hold mine," in French.
Photo Credit : CNN - Noonans
It is surmised that this was the wedding ring of Joan Brook who married Thomas Brook. They married in 1388, joining two wealthy families together and greatly expanding the Brook family wealth.
From the perfect condition it is still in, the Lady Joan probably lost it very soon after the wedding.
Keep in mind that only basic tools existed, when this ring was made, which by today's standards would still be regarded as a masterful work.
The earliest finding of jewelry was dated around 25,000 years ago.
The first signs of gold jewelry emerged more than 6,000 years ago among ancient cultures.
A collection of the world's oldest processed gold can be seen at the Varna Museum of Archaeology in Bulgaria, dating back to 4400-4100 BC.
Credit - Gold jewelry from Varna Museum
For more information - https://www.archaeo.museumvarna.com/en/
These are the copper tools that were found in the excavations in Varna.
Credit – Varna Museum – foreigner.bg
The exquisitely decorated Herakles knot belt crafted in 22K gold, garnet, and emerald-like enamel from Ancient Greece dates back to late 4th–early 3rd century B.C. It was on display in 2019 at The European Fine Art Fair (TEFAF) in Maastricht.
Photo: Courtesy of Colnaghi - Galleriemagazine
The Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim (Pforzheim Jewellery Museum) is the only museum of its kind worldwide. Some 2000 exhibits, including an extensive ring collection, reveal the vast diversity of jewelry over five thousand years.
Think of the enormous accomplishment of jewelry making artisans, having only the most basic tools available at the time.
History of Tools
In the Neolithic age the first stone tools were made. More uncertain, is the date when the first hand tools were created. Hand tools defined as tools used with a vertical force, which is the first family.
The second family of tools were the “cutting tools” beginning with the awl and needle. From that developed the knife, which then developed into scissors.
Lever tools are the third family of tools. The breakthrough was the shovel which greatly improved agricultural tasks.
The discovery of rotational force around a center, gave rise to the fourth family, which consists of the wheel, rollers, gears and pulleys.
The four family tool groups
Progression of Jewelry Tools
The Bronze Age and the Iron Age had various kinds of files and rasps. Archaeologists have discovered rasps made from bronze in Egypt, dating back to the years 1200 – 1000 BC. Archaeologists have also discovered rasps made of iron used by the Assyrians, dating back to the 7th Century BC.
The origin of the blowpipe points to an invention of the Egyptians, observed on tomb wall paintings about 2400 BC. Evidence of alloying gold with silver and casting using a blowpipe, circa 200 BC. traced back to Ecuador and Peru. This simple and successful technique is still used today.
A major leap forward was the patent given to Acheson in February 1893, for what he called carborundum, and what we now know as silicon carbide.
It has been mass-produced as a powder and crystal for use as an abrasive used in sand paper and for drilling holes in stones.
RESOURCES and INFORMATIVE ARTICLES -
A Tool Odyssey : History of Tools
Making Roman Jewelry
How it was Made - Files
There is a genius craftsman, who goes by the name 'Click Spring ' on YouTube.
He is in the process of re-creating the Antikythera Mechanism, using tools and methodologies that are thousands of years old.
Clickspring makes his own files – https://youtu.be/SOw9WqMOHjA
It is well worth taking the time to watch his videos.
It's all very fascinating, coming back full circle, that we as metalsmiths still use very traditional tools, but at the same time the field has advanced immensely.
Here are a few tutorials with clusters and classical designs.
A beautiful star cluster split shank ring, which uses a few gemstones in a star shape to accent the center gemstone
Star Cluster Ring Tutorial - US$27
The marquise and round shapes in the shank create a dainty antique looking ring.
Antique Ring Design Tutorial - US$25
This is a cluster design with one marquise center stone and two flanking round gemstones.
Three Stone Marquise Ring Tutorial - US$32
The gemstones are set in square prong collets in the coin frame bezel with scallop detail.
Decorative Coin Frame Pendant Tutorial - US$27
This was a custom commission, where I had to make tiny white gold tubes and join them to a fine 18k chain. The chain design had to fit in with the brooch to form a unified look.
The brief was that the brooch remained a brooch, but also should be worn as a pendant, without any invasive work on the brooch.
This is an antique brooch. The brooch is circa 1920 and is a stunning example of really fine filigree work.
I needed to set .05ct diamonds (about 2.5mm) in a 3.23mm diameter wire.
The little jump rings were so small that I modified a double round set of pliers.
Preparing the bezel setting and bright engraving to finish the back of the bezel setting off.
Engraved white gold tube carrier through which the pin of the brooch slides.
I hope the look in the rear view mirror gives you a lot of motivation and inspiration to continue the lineage of jewelry making.
Wishing you good vibes,
Hans
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